Of the three main inhabited islands in the Galápagos, getting between Isabela and San Cristobal is the trickiest. In short, there isn’t a direct ferry, so you either have to take two ferries with a long layover or take a pricey flight. In this blog, I’ll talk you through the steps 👇
✈️ Option 1: Flying from Isabela to San Cristóbal
| Duration | ~45 minutes |
| Cost | ~$150 USD |
| Airline | Emetebe or ESAV |
| Baggage Limit | 10–15kg depending on ticket type |
| Booking | Book online direct with Emetebe or ESAV |
This is the fastest and most comfortable option. But it comes at a price of around $150. There are a few options and also quite a few resellers but the main two operating airlines (AFAIK) are Emetebe and ESAV. For transparency, I flew with ESAV.
I had read a lot online that slated the entire experience of flying between the islands; from extortionate baggage fees to changing timetables and cancelling flights and everything in-between, so I was understandably pretty nervous and primed for something to go wrong.
And I was right. The night before my flight, ESAV moved my flight from 2pm to 11am. It’s not the end of the world, but it scuppered my plans for that morning to visit a beach on Isabela and I had no other option.
The airport is about 2km from the main town of Puerto Villamil, you can take a taxi for around $5 or it’s around a 30-minute walk.
Once you arrive to the airport terminal, you head straight in the doors to the ESAV desk, you can’t miss it (there are only two desks in the terminal). Check-in is very simplistic and quick considering these planes can’t take much more than 8 people, on the day of my flight it was me and two others. The check-in desk is like any other airport, they weigh your bags and ask for your passport. Baggage limit is dependent on the ticket you buy, mine was 30lbs (or about 15kg) and that’s for everything you have with you: there’s no “hand luggage” or “hold luggage” here.
ESAV charge, as at April 2025, $1.75 per lb over or $1.50 if booked and paid in advance, which you can do when you book your flight online. I left a large proportion of my luggage in Santa Cruz with my previous Airbnb, as I couldn’t find a formal luggage storage service anywhere (crazy, right), so I would suggest the same, to save on luggage fees.
After your bag has been weighed, you head to the back of the terminal with your bag to the airport’s only “gate”, where there is seating for about 20 people and a view of the runway. Once it’s time to board your plane they’ll call you through and offer to take your bags – you walk across the tarmac to your plane and climb aboard.
I flew across in a Piper PA-34 Senaca, which is a twin-engine light aircraft and I paid an extra $25 to sit in the co-pilot seat.. and whilst it’s cool for the memories (and Instagram), the views aren’t as good as if you sit in the regular passenger seats, IMO.
Flight time including pre-flight checks is about 45 minutes (you’re airborne for about 30) and you’ll have some great views across the islands, it’s a unique experience in itself and the landing coming into San Cristobal is fantastic and certainly made the co-pilot seat fee worthwhile.
Once you land, you’ll probably taxi past an A320, which feels abnormally large, and you’ll be fast-tracked through the terminal, no problem. Getting into the city centre, to be honest, just walk it. There are taxis but it’s a ten minute walk downhill, get your steps in!
🚤 Option 2: Ferry via Santa Cruz
If flying isn’t an option for you, you can take a ferry, just note it’s a bit of a mission as there are no direct ferries between Isabela and San Cristóbal. You’ll need to go via Santa Cruz. Again, there are plenty of options but I used “Ferry Galapagos” to book my inter-island ferries and, when the option was available, I paid the extra $5 for the premium boat option.
Leg 1: Isabela to Santa Cruz
- Duration: 2–2.5 hours
- Cost: ~$35 USD
- Departures: Typically 7am and 2pm daily, you’ll need to take the 7am departure
Layover in Santa Cruz
Expect to wait 4–6 hours before your next ferry. It’s a good time to grab lunch or explore Puerto Ayora briefly. I’m told you can store your luggage somewhere in the docks for $5, but don’t take this as gospel.
Leg 2: Santa Cruz to San Cristóbal
- Duration: 2–2.5 hours
- Cost: ~$35 USD
- Departures: Usually 7am and 2pm, you’ll need to take the 2pm depature
💸 Island and Port Fees
- Galápagos National Park Fee: $200 (paid on initial arrival to the islands in the main airport of Baltra or San Cristóbal)
- Isabela Island Entry: $10 (cash only, on arrival)
- Water taxis: ~$1 per transfer each way, not included in ferry tickets (so, $4 for this trip)
Always carry cash. Even basic transfers and entry fees can’t be paid by card.
💻 Working Online Between Islands
You’ll be pleasantly surprised at internet here in the Galápagos. However, as a digital nomad, I always have a Starlink Mini in my backpack. For mobile internet, you absolutely want to have a Claro sim, you’ll get 4G coverage in all of the major towns and sometimes 3G when you head further afield. If you’re opting for an E-sim, double check what network they’re offering, if it’s Movistar, you’ll be sh*t outta luck.
Most cafés and restaurants will have Wi-Fi and if you want that classic “working on the beach” picture, then head to the Pink Iguana Bar in Isabela, which has a great sign outside saying “digital nomads welcome” and has great internet and is right on the beach.
All the Airbnbs and guesthouses I stayed in had really good wi-fi (most using Starlink) and I never had a connection below 50mbps, but as always, check with the property before booking. Hopes and prayers can’t connect you to the internet.
🆚 Quick Comparison of Plane vs Boat
| Option | Time | Cost | Pros | Cons |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Flight | 45 mins | ~$150 | Fast, scenic, no nausea | Expensive, limited baggage |
| Ferry (via Santa Cruz) | ~8 hrs | ~$60 | Cheaper, more adventurous | Long travel day, rough seas |
Other Galápagos Routes
- Santa Cruz ↔ Isabela: Ferry
- Santa Cruz ↔ San Cristóbal: Ferry
- San Cristóbal ↔ Isabela: Flight only
You can also take day tours or private charters if you’re on a flexible budget.
FAQs: Travelling between Isabela and San Cristóbal
💭 Final Thoughts
Getting from Isabela to San Cristóbal takes planning, but it’s totally doable. Fly if you’re short on time or prone to seasickness. Ferry if you’re up for the ride and want to save money. Either way, both routes give you access to incredible wildlife, stunning landscapes, and a unique chance to experience island life in the Galápagos.
